Minnow: Sustainable Seafood on the New Suffolk Waterfront

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Is there such a thing as a truly sustainable restaurant? There are a handful of local dining spots that attempt to appeal to the earth-friendly among us, sure, but not many that cater to the more rigorous demands of the ethical gastronome. Andrea Tese – whose standards for what is truly green go far beyond paper straws – is hoping to fix that with a new seafood place that answers up-front all the sticky questions you have about the origins of the food on your plate.

Minnow, which will have the vibe of an "old fishing shack," sits on the historic New Suffolk waterfront in Southold and will feature exclusively line- and trap-caught fish, eco-friendly containers and food-ware, and a truly virtuous nod to the planet's long-term good, all the way down to making sure the cooking oil ships in something other than plastic vats and the fish bones can all be composted.

"To my knowledge there is no restaurant that does this," said Tese. "It's something I’ve always wanted as a consumer, as a restaurant-goer, because I’m the annoying person who asks, ‘Exactly where's this fish from?’ or, ‘So wait, how was it caught?’ I want to go into a restaurant and not have to ask those questions and have all the work done for me."

The concept will be opening in the renovated space of what was once the Galley Ho bar and restaurant, a fried-fish joint her family visited in the summers.

She recalled being "in awe" of the ‘salty" bar-scene full of local fishermen, and still maintains a family home in the area.

Tese, a self-proclaimed fisherwoman and all-around "ocean person," was part of a local non-profit group called New Suffolk Waterfront Fund that joined together to save the Galley Ho location from being developed and turned into boat-storage. She now rents the space from the fund.

The mission she has chosen for Minnow is a marriage of the things she's passionate about – ocean conservation, sustainable food, and high-quality food. It's going to be a little less "salty" and offer up new and interesting ways to consider the planet, particularly our oceans, as we make lunch and dinner plans.

To leave as little impact on the environment as possible, Minnow's primary focus wlll be on serving locally-sourced produce and fish caught only by line or trap – the way the bulk of all seafood gets to your plate.

"I think it's the only really sustainable way to eat seafood and catch fish," Tese says.

However, eliminating traditional distributors that sell net-caught fish posed new problems, mainly: how to procure sustainable seafood. One solution she and her braintrust came up with was to make a deal with a locally-based husband-wife fishing team, as well as some other independent fishermen in the area hoping to bargain more directly with her restaurant.

She will also make good use of by-kill, or non-target fish that are caught up in nets and then discarded dead or dying.

The menu, courtesy of Chef Cheo Avila, a long-time fixture in Greenport restaurants, is going to lean Mediterranean but mix in elements of North African, Mexican, and Middle Eastern flavor profiles. Featuring ingredients that Avila said will "shine by themselves," Minnow will rely heavily on local, seasonal, and organic products.

One of the signature dishes will be a butterflied cocktail bluefish grilled with salsa verde and parsley served on a wood board, as well as tilefish cake, ceviche, crudos, and also "crowd pleasers" like fried specialties and pasta dishes.

While Tese will not have mammals on her menu at Minnow, she hopes to begin using ducks from a local North Fork farm to start curing duck prosciutto and duck bacon.

Tese said that her focus on trying to eliminate plastics from the bar and to-go containers – even trying to rid them from "the back of the house" – has made things especially difficult given how much modern life relies on its convenience. Plus, with little restaurant experience in her background, she is learning on the job and is thankful she found a good team in Avila and head bartender and menu curator Amanda Akran.

"It's been way more difficult than doing things the normal way," Tese said. "But I’ve been threatening to do this for a long time."

For Avila, the process of opening in time for the summer while adhering to the restaurant's sustainability mission has been a challenge. He said that he enjoys thinking outside the box to see how far "we can push things while being functional and professional and profitable."

"Through every aspect of the whole operation we are trying to find solutions or at least a better system to create less waste," Avila said. "That adds a lot of complexity to everything, but it's going to be fun. The view is striking and you can come with your boat."

Minnow is located at 650 1st Street in New Suffolk, Southhold. Learn more at minnowrestaurant.com and find them on Instagram @minnowatthegalleyho